Inline Tube - Brake & Fuel Line Installation
Common Installation problems
The most common problem with lines not fitting properly is that they are
installed incorrectly or the car has been modified. Inline Tube makes
replacement parts for cars using factory original specifications. Changes in
master cylinders, manual to power brakes, proportioning valves, calipers, rear
ends, fuel pumps, carburetors, radiators, transmissions or disc brake
conversions can each affect the fit of a part. Lines are typically very
specific to the model, and sometimes even depend on the month of production.
Although some lines do cross over from year to year, most do not. If you are
unsure of how the lines go back on your car, Inline Tube offers a large variety
of assembly manuals to assist in your project. Below is a general guide to
installing your Inline Tube replacement lines.
Carefully remove the old lines
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Step 1. Even with our extensive research and resource library, we still find
some original cars with parts that differ from our patterns. Multiple vendors
made lines for the OEM, they start and end in the same location but the bends
may be slightly different. Always remove your old lines carefully for
comparison. Always keep your old lines for reference. If your old line is
different, we may need to see your original line as an example of what was on your car.
Compare old and new lines
Step 2. Make sure the line you are
comparing to is a true original line. If your line has a long fitting on one end
and short fitting on the other, it is remade. If the line has wave-like bends
and/or wraps around to take up the slack in the line, it is remade. The original
line will have crisp, clean bends just like our replacement line. If a line must
be altered to fit a non-stock application (line lock, dual master, disc brake
conversion, replacement rear end) or your application varies from our part, be
aware that once the part is bent, cut, or not in the original shape, it is NOT
returnable.
Clean and prepare block and valves
Step 3. In some cases, you will be re-using the original brake distribution block, proportioning valve, or other blocks that are not available new. These blocks should be cleaned and inspected before reassembly. Valves are available for all common cars on the inline tube web site.
Clean the thread ports carefully using solvent, a small brush and compressed air. Inspect the cone shaped seat in the bottom of each port. If the seats have multiple crush rings or off-center crush rings, you may have trouble with leakage. If the seats look bad, you may consider buying a new replacement valve. In most cases, blocks are available new, but in some cases the original block may have to be reused. In many cases the brake hoses may have a brass block that looks like it is part of the hose. This block is often overlooked and thrown away. Inline tube also carries all these brass items.Routing the new lines
Step 4.
With the protective caps
in place, route the new lines into place on the car. The end caps protect
the threads and prevent dirt from entering the lines. If you have new
clips, install them in the exact position of the original clips. New clips are
available from Inline Tube for all common applications. Carefully route
the new lines in the line clips and start the bolts in the clips, but do not
completely tighten the lines or the clips.
Start Threading
Step 5. With the new lines loosely
in place, be sure the ends are near the port where they will install, and
pointing the proper direction. Leave all connection points such as valves,
blocks, clamps, and wheel cylinders as loose as possible. This will give you
some free play while you are starting the fittings. Your new lines should line
up close to the attaching points. You may have to align the new lines slightly
by gently bending the ends into place. Make sure that the fittings have the
correct angle to the receiving female threads to avoid cross-threading. The seat
of the flare will be resting against the cone of the component so make sure the
line is straight into the fitting hole and aligned to the seat, this will
prevent a potential future leak. Remove
the end caps and finger tighten all fittings. Do not tighten any fittings clamps
or blocks until all lines are in place.
Choosing a fluid
Standard DOT 3
brake fluid will work just fine in your new system. Be sure it has not been
exposed to moisture. An open container of DOT 3 fluid will collect moisture from
the atmosphere. DOT 3 fluid will also damage your paint, so do not spill on any
on your vehicle.
DOT 5 (silicone fluid) repels moisture, and will not harm your paint. Under extreme braking conditions (constant drag racing) or excessive braking, DOT 5 does not perform as well as DOT 3. When DOT 5 fluid heats up, performance decreases. When changing a system over to DOT 5, be sure to flush out all reused components, blocks, cylinders, and lines. DOT 5 & DOT 3 fluids should never be mixed.
Any brake fluid can't hold air bubbles so never shake the container. If it has been shaken, pour it into a container that may be heated. Place the container over low heat for 10-15 minutes. If it appears to boil, it is just the air coming out of the fluid. Allow the fluid to cool and pour it back into it's container. It is now ready to be used.Finishing the job
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Step 6. With all fittings started,
tighten all blocks and clamps. Now fully tighten all fittings. When you tighten
fittings, make sure to use a line wrench. Your new lines are now installed. Fill
your master cylinder with new brake fluid. Bench bleed the master and make sure
caliper and wheel cylinder pistons are fully depressed. This will save time in
the bleeding process. Then bleed the air out of the entire system
starting with the wheel farthest from the master. Bleeding the brakes when a new
component has been installed can take quite a bit of time, fluid and energy.
Once the system is air-free, check each connection for leaks.
Finished Job
All your new lines are now installed.
Trouble shooting lines that still leak
If you have a
leaky line on a new component, the line has not been tightened enough to crush
and seal the line to the brass seat, or the tube is not straight on the brass
seat. Loosen the line slightly, align and retighten
to force a seat between the brass and the line. Repeat until a seat occurs which
will stop the leak. If you have a leaky line on a used component or block, see
step 2.
Never use Teflon to seal lines. Teflon seals the threads to the component
but does not stop the leak. Remember the cone of the component and the flare of
the tube is what seals the connection. The tube nut simply holds the flare to
the seat. Teflon is only used on pipe fittings (tapered fittings), NOT on brake
line fittings.
Consult your mechanic
This page is
intended for use as a basic guide to help install new brake and fuel lines. If
you are unsure about any part of the installation procedure, please consult a
certified, professional mechanic for assistance. Inline Tube assumes no
responsibility or liability for improperly installed lines.
Quick Tip: Line Installation
Line Installation - Refer to the disassembly photos. There are many holes in the frame and it is impossible to remember which are the correct holes for line clip mounting. If you do not have photos, Inline Tube sells factory assembly manuals that show in detail where each of the clips are located in the frame. The manuals are available for cars such as Camaro, Chevelle, Nova ,Corvette and many other common cars and trucks.
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