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Catalog Requests Customer Survey Policy & Procedure Shipping Cost Chart Contact Us |
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By The Foot
20 Foot Coils
For stainless tube, please put an "s" in front of the part number. Spring Wrap
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| View Part ID3/16 ID1/4 ID5/16 ID3/8 |
Description 3/16" Tubing, Per Foot 1/4" Tubing, Per Foot 5/16" Tubing, Per Foot 3/8" Tubing, Per Foot |
Stainless $2.95 $2.95 $2.95 $2.95 |
OE Steel
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For stainless tube, please put an "s" in front of the part number.
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View Part LNK-10 LNK-11 |
Description Stainless Tin Coated Steel (OEM) |
Price $25.00 $18.00 |
Details:
Disc Brake Conversion Lines to go from the master to the prop. valve.
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View Part MST-01 |
Description Disc/Drum Master Cylinder |
Price $85.00 |
Details:
Disc Brake Conversion Master Cylinder, Prop. Valve, Lines and Bracket (each sold
separate)
CMC01 CMC02 BOT08
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View Part CMC01 CMC02 BOT08 |
Description Factory Style Chrome Master Cylinder Smooth Lid Chrome Master Cylinder Chrome Booster |
Price $105.00 $105.00 $165.00 |
Details:
1964-66 A-Body Dual Master, 67-72 A/FBody Master
Cylinders, Chrome Plated.
1967-69 F-Body, 67-72 A-Body Brake Booster, Chrome Plated
Tips for a Perfect Flare - When flaring tube, it is important to read all the instructions carefully. Before you flare the tube, deburr and chamfer both edges of the tube, allowing the tube to roll over and create a smooth edge. To deburr the inside edge, use a drill or file and rotate the file in the opening of the tube. The outside edge can be done with a standard file. Tube cracking is caused when the tube is not properly deburred. Do not cut tube with a tube cutter. When the cutter becomes dull, it hardens the end of the tube causing flaring to be very difficult. Flaring tube takes practice and an understanding of how the tools work. Once the practice is put in, the understanding will come.
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